Saturday, July 4, 2009

Happy Independence Day

Happy Independence Day to all. I want to say that I am thankful everyday that I am fortunate enough to be out here experiencing the beautiful natural world. Yes, it is under seige from many directions, but yet one must still sit back, enjoy and be in awe of the wonderful spectacle which only the natural world can supply. We must protect our natural resources for future generations.

Friday, July 3, 2009

Media Accumulating

Starting to be some good media stories out on our venture from the University of Washington, NASA, to REAL Science. Bad internet here in Nome, but please Google some of these sources if you have time. Thanks

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Ice Forecast from the Canadian Ice Service

Well folks read this and make your own informed decision as we proceed in the Northwest Passage next week by crossing the Arctic Circle. You can get ice reports from the "links" button on my website and go to the Canadian Ice Service. Same ice info we have. Good luck with your own anaysis....

The only region where mean temperatures were above normal was in the Resolute
Bay area. The breakup pattern is quite normal for the Central Arctic region
except for the eastern Barrow Strait region which is already depleted of ice; this
typically occurs in the third week of July. In the Western Arctic region, the
breakup pattern is 1-3 weeks early in many coastal areas and by as much as one
month in isolated areas. During the last 2 weeks of June, open drift or less ice
conditions into Wainwright developed as well as an open water route between
Cape Lisburne and Point Barrow albeit small areas of coastal fast ice are still
present north of Wainwright. Kugmallit Bay cleared of ice during the last week of
June and some fast ice still lingers in the northeastern entrance to Mackenzie
Bay; the clearing of Mackenzie Bay is already 2 weeks late. The fast ice in
Amundsen Gulf and along the Tuktoyaktuk Peninsula fractured; this occurred 7
to 10 days earlier than expected. A 60 to 100-mile wide area containing very little
ice developed along the southern Beaufort Sea west of Banks Island all the way
to just east of Point Barrow. This wide area quickly shrinks to only a few miles
wide north and northeast of Point Barrow.

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

A Few Photos



Ocean Watch arrives in Nome, Alaska

Again, lots of catch up but I am keeping a few notes daily and posting when we arrive.
Sitting at the Nugget Inn where OW has a room for working and off boat water usage. No water on our dockspace. Cleaned up the boat this AM. The local gold dredgers are more busy than ever. Gold rush times again. Now on to work....


Saturday, June 27 Bering Sea
0830 lazy morning departure from Dutch Harbor after quite a sleep by the crew; guess we all needed it. Dutch was its usual blend of locals, native peoples and company workers. The single entity is UniSea, a huge fishing top to bottom conglomerate who literally owns everything in Dutch from the bar and hospital to the police station. Mostly foreign workers from Asia Pacific rim. We learned that the fishery out here is changing. Fishing boats are having to venture farther away and Russia is effecting Dutch with their Barents Sea operations and transplanting species into that realm. Calm now in the Bering. Heading to Nome. Lots of birds and an unknown whale today with lots of scars. Now 100 nm offshore.

Sunday, June 28 Bering Sea
Great sailing day in the Bering Sea. Roaring along efficiently with the constant hum which begins at about 8 knots. Knocking off miles.

Monday, June 29 Bering Sea, Nunivak Is.
Just off Cape Vancouver near old friend Nunivak Island where Cloud Nine stopped going south in the lee of a big southern blow. Now Ocean Watch has stopped for a different purpose in calm, shallow waters (under 40') to do some science. Taking some jellyfish samples and doing some underwater accoustics with the hydrophone. Perfect opportunity to do some video interviews also.

Oh yes, and we identified the whale. It is a somewhat rare sighting of a Baird's Beaked whale. They are not seen often but are here in these waters of the Alaskan Gulf, Bering Sea and Northern Pacific waters.


We now are closing in on 3000 miles of sailing by Nome. What have we learned thus far? Ocean Watch has spent this time in the Pacific Northwest, Canadian/Alaskan Inside Passages, Gulf of AK, Aleutians and now Bering Sea/Norton Sound. The common theme in all is fisheries. The state of these fisheries is a mixed bag at best.

The native fisheries of Alert Bay are very strained and younger people have lost interest in fishing as a livelihood, but the sea remains alive in their culture. Upland issues in forests (over-logging, etc), like the Tongass, for example, lead to numerous problems downstream for the fisheries, as does commercial development. Farmed fish are a major competitor, but also pose a health/food safety risk as do all confined animal farming operations. Over-fishing and illegal fishing continue to plague the industry. Cruise ships have a huge impact on local communities/cultures and tax the infrastructure. A growing human population worldwide adds to the stresses already on the fisheries.


Climate change and ocean acidification are extremely complex additions to the equation. We sailed through an area of the Gulf of Alaska which is a "carbon sink" with a lower pH and is more acidic. The oceans and seas are absorbing CO2 at an alarming rate, an unsustainable one. The warming trend associated with a changing climate attracts invasive species and forces fisherman into more remote areas using more fuel in the process. Alaskan Polluck are heading north to cooler waters for instance.

Alaskans are fortunate to have had some good leadership but the continued popularity of seafood in growing population centers worldwide is going to add tremendous stress on an already stressed system. These are a few of the things which I, and we, on Ocean Watch are trying to learn more about and share as we can.

Tuesday, June 30th Norton Sound, Alaska
Last leg in. Under 100 miles. Into Nome tonight. Fantastic passage. Translated this means quiet, safe, and free of big moments. So different than 2 years ago. Looking forward to our open house and presentations in Nome on July 2nd.

Wednesday, July 1 Nome, Alaska
Arrived at dock 0030 Hrs. Safe and dry. Ready for our Nome visit.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Dutch Harbor, Alaska. Big milestone.

OK folks. Here is some catch up. Lots of work to do in Dutch Harbor, AK, on the world's deadliest sailboat, Ocean Watch.



Monday, June 15 Hoonah, Alaska
Sitting at the dock in Hoonah, AK, after a short run yesterday from Juneau. "Hoonahlulu" as we are calling it is a little, mostly native, fishing village on Chichigof Is. It will be the last stop before Dutch Harbor. Our scientist, Micheal Reynolds, has his probe in the water this morning taking multiple readings in the harbor, including acoustic measurements. Not much for sun/cloud info today as it is overcast and raining. Captain Schrader shared some wonderful stories last night from his solo days, especially from the Falkland Islands where he had a magnificent adventure in a time of war and conflict.

Tuesday, June 16 Gulf of Alaska
Making our crossing of the Gulf now on our way to Dutch Harbor. About 1000 miles from the little "hobbit" town of Elfin Cove where wooden boardwalks wind around the entire town and you have a constant feeling of being in someone's living room. We departed from this funny little hamlet into Cross Sound at 0700 and are now some 100+ miles off the coast.

The weather cleared and we could clearly see the Glacier Bay wilderness in the distance and then at over 60 miles offshore, the majestic St Elias Mountain range popped up above the clouds. At 19,551 feet, Mount Logan anchors this remote coastal range. Glassy seas and little wind. Ocean Watch motors along this evening looking for some clear skies and lot of stars on a moonless night.

Thursday, June 18 Gulf of Alaska
Happy Birthday Mom! Miss you, sailing the blue waters of Okoboji, all my great friends and loved ones.

Friday, June 19 Gulf of Alaska
Now 450 miles as the crow flies to Dutch Harbor. Should be in Monday morning. Long slog through these waters. Confused sea yesterday after some really good sailing Wednesday. Miles pass, days fade, discussions come and go. Drifting into more science today and the carbon "sink" we are sailing through which is the northern Pacific and Gulf of Alaska where the waters are more acidic (less basic) than the world average. This is an important function of the world's seas and oceans as a "sink" but they are being overwhelmed by the shear amount of carbon in the atmosphere to absorb. See my blog on the AtA site on 6/20.

Saturday, June 20 Gulf of Alaska
The Gulf is kicked up. Right in our face. Just took the second reef and it was messy. Night, dark, dangerous. All of the above. About 175 miles east of the Shumagin Island group, then another 175 to the cut at Unimak Pass.

Sunday, June 21 Gulf of AK
Happy summer solstice. Funny how I have wished this from the north a few times, cold lonely places far away. But in these places there is discovery. We are crossing Cloud Nine's rumb line from a couple years ago. Dutch Harbor Seems an eternity away. 2200- later, things have settled down. Problem is still wind on our nose. Cooling off too. Now 5.5 C. Starting to look for Shishaldin Volcano, 9500' of wow.

Monday, June 22 Unimak Island, AK
Found Shishaldin and its mate, Isanotski Peak. These are amazing formations along the Aleutian Islands. You almost expect them to blow at any time. Shishaldin is a perfect cone volcano. Alaska has 10% of the world’s earthquakes and is situated on the "ring of fire." I remember this area well and use the image I took two years ago in my presentations on climate change.

Tuesday, June 23 Dutch Harbor, AK
We made it! 0230 hrs arrival. Back at the commercial fishing dock where Cloud Nine was two years ago after finding no room in the small boat harbor. Made a bit of a toast together at 0330. A long, long sail across the Gulf against the grain. 1100 miles. Big milestone here folks. We can now go north and set the table for the NW Passage. Got in the bunk at 0400. Sleep came easy. Lot's to do now in Dutch. Science lecture and slideshow tonight to begin. First, breakfast and shower, not necessarily in that order. Look for photos and twitter feeds... Happy to be here.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Check In Checking Out


Hello All,
It has been an extraordinary trip to Juneau. We absolutely had a great time here learned so much from all the dedicated folks in and around this beautiful area. Thanks especially to Theresa and Jeff. You two are amazing. And my personal port hosts (complete with Iowa connection) Bill and Nancy, you two rock! The salmon bake with a fire on their green roof yesterday was a real highlight.

Now on to Dutch Harbor. A long 1000 mile passage through the Gulf of Alaska where two years ago we had 60+ knots and big seas. This will be the first big test of Ocean Watch at sea since Seattle. Please stay tuned to the AtA website; Herb and I will be doing weblogs and updates. I will work on the image library and get that all up and going. We have over a year out here and things are developing as we go, so bear with me and the voyage and it will iron out. Take care out there. Check in soon.
David